4 Best 10/22 Trigger to Upgrade Your Rifle [2024 Top Picks]

The Best 10/22 Trigger Replacement Options

Let’s be honest, the stock trigger on a Ruger 10/22 isn’t awesome. So what do we do about it? Well, you can look for specific kit pieces and try to install individual components of the trigger kit, or you can buy an entire assembly that’s ready to drop in with only a few minutes of work.

Since you probably don’t have strong opinions about the trigger guard, bolt lock, or other parts that are neither adjustable nor customizable on a 10/22 trigger, getting a full assembly either CNC or edm machined with precise tolerances to drop right into your Ruger 10/22 is usually the right way to go.

Why Replace A Ruger 10/22 Trigger?

Honestly, some triggers suck. You can always tell when a manufacturer hasn’t put much thought into a new trigger design. That said, most triggers are perfectly serviceable, or at least they seem like they are until your shooting skills reach a certain point.

The main reason why a person would want to replace the standard Ruger 10/22 trigger assembly is to be more accurate when they shoot their rifle. There are a number of different ways to measure a trigger’s performance, and we’ll go over those in detail at the end of the article for those who aren’t familiar with the terms.

Speaking specifically to the Ruger 10/22 - the original Ruger 10/22 trigger leaves a lot to be desired. Considering the Ruger 10/22 is a rimfire rifle that is meant to be used within 100 yards in the vast majority of cases, the 10/22 trigger really does make tighter shot groupings much more difficult. 

It has a heavy pull, it’s made of plastic (ok, so it’s a heat treated polymer construction, but still), and overall the rifles aren’t as accurate as they could be, even with match-grade ammo.

What to Expect from Trigger Assemblies

One of the best things about the 10/22 (and one of the reasons it’s so popular), is that it’s very simple to swap out pieces (like triggers) and replace them with aftermarket components. With other rifles and other firearm types, it’s common to have to buy just the new trigger shoes, or just the trigger guard, etc.

With a Ruger 10/22 trigger assembly, you buy the complete trigger assembly and it’s a drop in installation. No elbow grease required. This does make it harder to mix and match trigger shoes with a specific 10/22 trigger guard or hammer, but for the most part this isn’t a big deal, since one trigger guard is basically the same as any other. 

Installing a 10/22 Drop In Trigger on your Rifle

There really isn’t much to this install. You disassemble your rifle just like you would for cleaning, separating the bolt and 10/22 trigger assembly  from the stock. Then you use a small punch to push out the two pins holding the assembly inside the bolt carrier group.Now just swap the new assembly where the standard trigger was and  that’s it. Voila. You’re done.

Doesn’t matter if you’ve got a pistol grip and I don’t believe there’s any more complication no matter what model of 10/22 you have, though I could be wrong.

1. Ruger BX Trigger

If you’re just looking for a simple, relatively affordable upgrade, then the Ruger BX trigger might be the way to go. However, it does beg the question - if Ruger has the upgraded BX, why don’t they just include it on the 10/22 to begin with?

If you’re looking for something that’s a little bit crisper, a little bit cleaner, and a much lighter pull weight, then the BX trigger upgrade may be all you need. It’s not a fully adjustable trigger like some of the others we’ll talk about, but if all you want is a bit more accuracy out of your 10/22 then it can be a good choice.

The magazine release pin is virtually identical to the stock trigger, and it will just drop in with barely more dismantling than it takes to clean the rifle in the first place. It’s a solid assembly and it really should be the Ruger factory trigger on the 10/22. This is the most affordable option on the list, so if you’re penny-pinching you may want to look closer at this one.

2. Timney Replacement Assembly

The Timney is one of the two premium replacement options that we’ve included. The price for this and the Volquartsen are right in the same range, and a lot of what you get is the same as well. The Timney pull weight is set at the factory at 2.75 pounds, which is plenty light, and is advertised as having “no creep”.

Creep is definitely minimal, and it is incredibly consistent. It has an extended magazine release, which is nice when shooting at the range, but it actually sticks out far enough that it’s easy to bump it accidentally and end up dropping your magazine to the ground. 

It’s a complete, drop in trigger assembly that is just as easy as the BX trigger to install. 

3. Volquartsen TG2000 Trigger Group

The trigger pull weight on the TG2000 is half a pound lighter than the Timney, and it’s not adjustable either, so that may be a significant contributing factor to which one you end up going with. What I like about the TG2000 is that the creep and overtravel are both adjustable even though the pull weight is not.

The assembly is built from CNC-machined 6061 Aluminum and is a lot tougher overall than the Ruger factory trigger. It also has an automatic bolt release and an extended magazine release. This should be drop-in as well, just like the first two triggers we went over.

Of this list, I would consider the Volquartsen the cream of the crop. If money is no object, then this is hands down the trigger to go with. If you feel like it’s silly to spend almost as much on a replacement trigger as you spent on the rifle to begin with, then you can always look at the BX trigger or the Clark Custom Guns trigger coming up next.

4. Clark Custom Guns Trigger Assembly

The Clark Custom Guns trigger is a high quality option that will be a lot like the BX trigger but with less travel, both pre-travel and over-travel. It’s a crisp trigger with a pull weight between 2.25 and 2.75 pounds and aluminum housing. You’ll get a consistent trigger pull that will get you more accurate shots.

It’s not really adjustable, unless you’re willing to whip out your gunsmithing tools and files and go to town, but it’s a marked upgrade to the stock trigger and whether you prefer this one or the BX trigger is going to be largely a matter of preference as opposed to objective quality differences.

You can get it in silver or black, and the internal components are going to be much the same as the other triggers on this list.

Buying Guide

Trigger Pull Weight

Trigger weight is a measurement of how much force is required to pull the trigger back all the way until the trigger breaks. You could also think of it as how much weight you’d have to put onto the trigger if the rifle were pointed straight up in order to get it to fire.

Trigger weight is actually a really important thing to consider when purchasing a rifle or looking at trigger kits. Standard pull weight is usually between 3.5 and 5 pounds, with a heavy trigger weight going up to 12 pounds and a light trigger weight going under a pound. What’s the best trigger weight? It completely depends.

As a general rule, the heavier the trigger weight, the harder the trigger is to squeeze, which means the more you’ll end up moving the gun as you squeeze it. This is especially true of handguns, but is true of rifles as well. 

The other side of that coin is that the lighter the trigger weight, the larger the risk of accidental or premature discharge. Since this isn’t a big deal for competition target shooting and they want the most accurate set-up they can get, these shooters will often go for extremely light trigger weights.

Someone going hunting, on the other hand, may opt for a more standard weight, while some law enforcement agencies in the US require heavier trigger weight as a safety precaution. Your 10/22 trigger is most likely fine to have a pretty light trigger weight since you’re most likely just plinking at the range or possibly doing pest control around the ranch.

Trigger Creep

Good luck finding a consensus online for the definition of exactly what trigger “creep” is. The way I define it is when the trigger moves “more than it should” between when you start applying pressure and when the hammer spring causes the rifle to shoot. This phase of the trigger pull is called the travel. There’s also “pre-travel” and “over-travel” which we’ll get into in a second.

Some shooters don’t want the trigger to budge at all until it breaks. In other words, if the trigger pull weight is 2.5 pounds, they want the trigger to instantly go from 0 to 100 the moment the pressure on the trigger reaches 2.5 pounds. Other shooters prefer to have a little bit of travel, and a select few like to have a lot of travel.

Myself, I like a little bit of travel because try as I might, my shooting technique is not good enough that I don’t throw my shot off at least a little bit when I start squeezing the trigger, so a little bit of travel gives me a chance to start that initial squeeze, then make adjustments, let out my breath, then give the trigger the slightest little extra squeeze and see where I hit.

Pre-Travel

So, quick note on pre-travel and over-travel. Pre-travel is how much distance the trigger can  move before it engages the rest of the trigger mechanism. Pre-travel is generally considered bad, but there’s a legitimate argument for it especially for concealed carry and for guns without an external safety. 

If you’re carrying with one in the chamber there are advantages to triggers with a little bit of pre-travel.

Over-Travel

Over-travel is how far the trigger continues to move back after it breaks. For the most part, the more over-travel there is the worse the trigger is going to feel and operate. Triggers with a lot of over-travel can start to affect how quickly the rifle can be fired and how comfortable it is to shoot. 

Some triggers, like the Volquartsen, allow you to adjust the amount of over-travel and pre-travel there is on their 10/22 drop in trigger assemblies. Having less over travel gives you a shorter reset, which is just one of the important factors to consider when you’re trying to adjust how quickly you’re able to shoot.

Trigger Stacking

Trigger stacking refers to how much the pull weight increases as you go through the movement with your shooting hand of pulling the trigger. In order for there to be any travel at all, there has to be some degree of stacking, because otherwise as soon as you hit the trigger’s pull weight it would go from 0 to 100 like we talked about in the creep section.

The question is how much is the right amount. For a single stage trigger, it really shouldn’t be much. I find that the most user friendly triggers increase the resistance just enough that I can pause my shooting hand and hold my movement while I finish letting out my breath and make micro adjustments.

Only you can decide how much stacking you like, and only experience trying out different trigger kit options will give you the insight you need.

Trigger Reset

Between pre-travel, travel, and over-travel, 10/22 triggers can move a fair distance by the time they’re done. The trick is that they have to reset to their original position after every single round. 

Components of Trigger Assemblies

There are some internal parts of a drop in trigger assembly, but we’ll go over the main pieces.

Trigger Guard

The trigger guard is the outermost ring that goes around the bottom and front of the shoe. The trigger guard obviously plays an important safety role, but the trigger guard can also be useful when you’re developing discipline or trying to hit the mag release or bolt release without looking.

Automatic Bolt Release

Not all assemblies have this, but an auto bolt release is a nice thing to have. On the Ruger 10/22 and a Ruger charger pistol, there’s a little switch thing that you push up that releases the bolt and chambers the first round. The auto bolt release lets you just pull back slightly on the bolt to have the same effect, similar to the way a charging handle works.

Magazine Release

The magazine release is an important part of these triggers and many companies opt to add an extended release that is easier to reach.

Final Thoughts

If you’re shopping gun deals looking for triggers or kits that are more adjustable, have better reset, or just battery quality, then the ones we’ve covered here are good possibilities. You can get a lot less side movement when you have a kit with lighter pull and less travel. Side to side movement can make you a lot less accurate regardless of the quality of ammo you have.

New triggers can have more impact on how accurate you shoot than a new barrel kit or other components you could replace. If you find the right gun deals you can get a high quality, adjustable kit that makes you more accurate for a pretty decent price, and most of these companies have excellent customer service.

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